The Italy Locals Escape To: Forest Inns, Hilltop Villages and Quiet Coasts

Ask Italians where they go to avoid the crowds, and you may hear names that rarely appear in international guidebooks. One is Brisighella in Emilia-Romagna, with its cliffs, watchtowers and scattered trees framing the approach like a scene from historical fiction.
The town’s charm continues in its centre, where medieval alleyways and stairs combine with an elevated path that cuts through the old houses. It’s an easy place to stroll without a fixed destination, simply enjoying perspectives over tiled roofs and distant hills.
Sicily’s Via dei Frati represents an escape of another kind. This 54-mile walking route from Caltanissetta to Cefalù crosses mountain terrain that still feels relatively untouched by mainstream tourism. Villages such as Gangi offer beds, meals and a level of curiosity that comes from seeing relatively few visitors.
In Basilicata, Venosa and its neighbours offer a different sort of retreat. The town’s Roman ruins, catacombs and castle sit alongside excellent local restaurants and wine. Around it, the castles at Melfi and Lagopesole and the palace at Pietragalla form a circuit of impressive but little-known sites.
The picture is completed by other hideaways: a remote eco-hotel east of Florence where the river becomes a pool and stars fill the night; Cividale’s blend of Roman roots, Lombard art and riverside views; Chioggia’s canals, fishing harbour and beaches; Santo Stefano d’Aveto’s mountain hikes and simple food; Loazzolo’s autumn-coloured vineyards and sweet wines; Campoli Appennino’s gorges and bear sanctuary; and Urbs Salvia’s Roman ruins basking in the Marche sunshine. These are the places where Italians go to breathe.